Wine that just keeps on flowing

Peculiar practices in the Chinese wine industry.

On a recent trip to see wine growers in California, there was some consternation about the continued plentiful supply of the 1998 vintage in shops across China.

Despite the fact that 1998 was a tough year for winemakers in many parts of the world, there appears to be no shortage of the vintage among Chinese retailers.

So what's the explanation? Good old fashioned superstition, experts reckon.

In China the number 8 is considered lucky and such superstitions cut a lot of mustard among much of the population.

It was no coincidence that the Olympics started on August 8, 2008, or 08-08-08. Similarly people have to pay extra to have the number 8 in their phone number or car license plate.

One of the reasons the number 8 is considered lucky is that it is symmetrical - cut it horizontal or vertical and you're left with two identical parts. In China symmetry equals balance, which is seen as positive.

But the suggestion is that the Chinese are cutting their wine too.

A little of the 1998 vintage in a bottle of wine and suppliers feel free to label it under that vintage. Some winemakers doubt the real 1998 vintage is used at all.

The crop in California has suffered this year but there is reason to suppose news of the shortage might not reach China. Expect the 2008 vintage to have a plentiful showing in shops from Shanghai to Shenzhen for some time to come.