Ritu Kumar s Fashion Show
By Kkomal Seth and Gautam Seth
Ritu Kumar\'s Fashion Show at the HDIL India Couture Week Ritu Kumar, one of India?s foremost designers, has developed a unique style of her own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. With a background in art history and museology, which has enriched her horizons, Ritu\'s understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. Ritu holds the status of a revivalist in the Indian fashion industry, who has successfully bridged the gap between traditionalism and modernity. However, her work today has gone much beyond revival it is constantly evolving within an aesthetic that is sophisticated both in the eastern and western sense, with each of her collections making a contemporary statement in a fast changing modern India. Ritu, who began her work with four hand-block printers and two tables, in a small village near Calcutta thirty five years ago, was the first woman to introduce the \'boutique\' culture in India under the brand name \'Ritu\'. Today she has outlets in all major cities in India. Ritu\'s boutiques feature a multifaceted showcase encompassing the very best of Indian designs, with a specially produced range of high fashion garments and accessories using silk, leather and cotton. Ritu?s range of western and Indian apparel is all about traditions and individual talent, and women across the continents can easily identify with her vision of design. Ritu has gone a long way to redefining the term fashion in the Indian context. Most importantly, she has demonstrated that the products made by hand can be as profitable as and even more glamorous than that of machine, and that Indian fashion is more than capable of holding its own in the international arena of haute couture. Her design philosophy is based on the premise that everything founded on a good aesthetic cuts across all borders geographical, cultural or otherwise. This very aesthetic is the factor central to the Indian handwriting which underlies her creations. While Ritu?s forte lies in traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India, and remain classics of their kind, she has evolved another style for the young buyer, a collection that, in her words, has redefined traditional handwriting to meet the changing needs of the new generation. The inspiration for these garments come from basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. Ritu has designed the wardrobes of three winning Miss India winners for their participation in international beauty pageants (Miss Universe, Miss World and Miss Asia Pacific). The wardrobes comprises of swimwear, eveningwear, traditional Indian wear, casual wear, formal evening gowns. Some of the beauty contestants for whom she has designed went on to win international titles putting India on the global beauty map. Many have won awards for the Most Outstanding Evening Gown and the Best National Costume. Internationally, style icons such as late Princess Diana and Jemima Khan have patronised Ritu Kumar\'s outfits. Her book \'Costumes and Textiles of Royal India\' published by Christies in October 1999 chronicles the history of textiles and art design in India. CHRONOLOGY 2006 Ritu Kumar showed her bridal collection at the Lycra MTV Style Awards 2006, accompanied by music composer Anu Malik, in Mumbai on October 14. Ritu Kumar relocated the Punjabi Bagh outlet in West Delhi to The West Gate mall Rajouri Garden on September 9. Launched retail outlets in cities like Hyderabad (Banjara Hills), Delhi (Cross River Mall) and Bandra, Mumbai (Label Store) during June-July. Showing of LABEL, at The Park Kolkata on August 18. \'Tree of life\' was showcased as the grand finale at the Annual General Body Meeting of Asian Development Bank in Hyderabad on May 5. Ritu Kumar\'s Hauz Khas outlet relocated to \'The Crescent at the Qutab\', a new fashion destination at Lado Sarai, New Delhi, on May 2. Launch accompanied by the showing of her collection ?Pr那t to Couture\'. Ritu Kumar awarded the ?Glam Womenswear (Indian) Designer\' Award by Tuscan Verve Zoom Glam Awards in Mumbai on April 30. Wills India Fashion Week, 6th April at Grand, New Delhi. The Ritu Kumar LABEL, Autumn Winter 2006, collection showcased at the WIFW The mood of the collection was vintage combined with traditional Indian elements in stylish, contemporary silhouettes. The garments were notesworthy for their detailed structuring and use of multiple fabrics to create a distressed, youthful, casual collection. By and large the collection contemporised old vintage and antique looks by adding fabric treatments and textures to develop a frayed crushed finish. The LABEL winter 2006 was aimed to be a unique and pioneering design effort for the Indian marketplace and as a representation of its aesthetic in a global context. \'Tree of Life\', March 17 Ritu Kumar presented the ?Tree of Life? in association with the National Museum of Women in Arts, in New Delhi, at the residence of Ms Sophia Blake - this was a benefit event for Women?s Cancer Initiative, Tata Memorial Hospital, along with Devika Bhojwani for the fight against breast cancer. 2005 Ritu Kumar Annual Fashion event on October 24 at Taj Lands End , Mumbai, in support of The Women\'s Cancer Initiative Tata Memorial Hospital, Mumbai a foundation that is involved in therapy, education and research in the fields of women related cancers with its initial focus on breast cancer. Leading stars like Shabana Azmi, Mandira Bedi, Kirron Kher, and singer Rageshwari, Neha Dhupia and Diana Hayden ramped for the cause. Ritu Kumar designed outfits for Shama Sikander who played the protagonist Pooja for the daily soap \'Ye meri life hai\'. Ritu Kumar launched new retail outlet in Pune at G-5, Nucleus Mall, Church Road, Camp on July 31, and in Gurgaon Mega Mall in January. 2004 Ritu Kumar selected as President of FDCI board in December. Ritu Kumar selected as Designer of the year 2004 by F awards held in Mumbai in November. Launch of Fall Winter?04 collection in various cities September 10: Taj palace Kolkata. September 12: Taj palace Bangalore. September 14: Park Sheraton Chennai. September 17: Taj Palace , New Delhi January: Designed costumes for \'Little Terrorist\', the Oscar nominated short film, directed by her son Ashvin Kumar. 2003 \'Tree of Life\' show screened in a special showing for Ad Asia delegates at Jaipur on November 14. Ritu Kumar launched new store in Chennai Ispahani Centre, 123/124 Nungambakkam High Road. Ritu Kumar launched her flagship store in Phoenix High Street, Lower Parel, Mumbai on October 6. Ritu Kumar designed exclusive outfits for \'Hollywood Bollywood\', a film directed by Deepa Mehta. Ritu Kumar was invited to showcase her collection at the Dubai Haute Couture Week, Dubai, on February 4. 2002 Launch of the first sub brand - Ritu Kumar \'LABEL\' on April 4 at The Oberoi, New Delhi and Mumbai. LABEL offers fashion with elements of classic Indian design aimed at the young, globally aware, fashion conscious woman. First standalone LABEL store opens at Juhu Tara Road, Mumbai. Ritu Kumar launched two new retail outlets in India, one in Ludhiana on October 15 at Dhir Towers, Govt. College Road and the next in Bangalore on November 21 at 1 Embassy Chambers, 5 Vittal Mallya Road. The \'Tree of Life\' was shown at the cultural evening hosted for PATA delegates in New Delhi, Ashoka Hotel on April 17. 2001 Retrospective Show, Central Cottage Industries, Janpath, New Delhi on December 21. Ritu Kumar?s collection Pr那t to Couture was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumar?s archives as well as her latest bridal collection and presented as A Retrospective Pr那t to Couture. The \"Ritu Kumar\" Bridal and Period collection was shown on October 28 at the The Oberoi Towers, the Regal Room, Mumbai. The show was held in collaboration with the magazine \"Marwar\" to celebrate its 10th anniversary. The evening was entitled, Soiree Royale\". The other highlights of which were the presence of several erstwhile maharajas and princes from the royal families of Rajasthan. Ritu Kumar launched her first store in West Delhi at Central Market, Punjabi Bagh. Alternatives to Shahtoosh, A presentation at Taj Mahal Hotel Delhi, on June 27. The show was organised to launch an international campaign to save the endangered species, which are killed for their wool to make the Shahtoosh shawl. Ritu Kumar showed her Jamavar line as an alternative to Shahtoosh. Ritu Kumar relocated to a new address in Amritsar at 39 HDFC Building, The Mall. Ritu Kumar launched a new retail outlet in Chandigarh, Shop No. 21, Sector 9-D. 2000 The \'Tree of Life\' was the highlight of the grand finale during a cultural evening hosted by Confederation of Indian Industry, at the Annual Meeting of the World Economic Forum, in Davos, Switzerland held on January 28. This celebrated audio-visual tableau by Ritu Kumar \'Tree of life\' was taken on the Invitation of India Trade Promotion Organisation to Hong Kong on February 26 as part of the cultural extravaganza \'India into the New Millennium\'. It was also hosted by the same organisation in Tel Aviv, Israel in May and at The Memphis in May Festival 2000 at Memphis Tennessee, USA the same month. Subsequently, it was showcased in New York in September. Pret to Coutre Ritu Kumar first presented her \'Pr那t to Couture\' for summer in August, along with a collection of woolens, silk and leather garments for winter. \'Pr那t to Couture\' is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both young and elegant. The inspirations for these garments come from basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later shown in Kolkata. \'Lifetime Achievement Award\' given by Kingfisher Group on July 15. The group hosted Fashion Fantasia, a fashion extravaganza in Bangalore. Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion fraternity. 1999 \'Tree of Life\' show was specially called for by the Singapore Indian Fine Arts Society on October 28 as part of the 50th year celebrations of India\'s Independence. The guest of honor on this occasion was the President of Singapore. Launch of Ritu Kumar Bridals: Ritu Kumar rejected the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily to be dressed in shades of red. For her Bridal?99 collection, she selected mehendi green, saffron, khaki, turquoise and even off-white colors. Delicate Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off-white fabrics were interwoven with pure gold thread. Costumes and textiles of Royal India: Ritu Kumar released her book ?Costumes and Textiles of Royal India? with a launch in London and the four main metros in India. In an-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India, the book considers all the various stylistic traditions, both religious and regional, arising from within this vast country. Beginning with India?s ancient and medieval history, through the Mughal period and ninety years of British rule, and into the twentieth century that saw the demise of Princely India and the establishment of a democratic nation, these are fashions that both permeate the culture and reflect it. The evolution of the tastes and preferences of India?s royalty has been traced through the traditional court clothing that has been researched and documented by the author over two decades. The exquisite costumes and textiles featured in this sumptuous book, which come from all four corners of the subcontinent, are unmatched in their beauty and refinement. Published by Christie?s Books Ltd, the book has been edited by Cathy Muscat and includes a foreword by Martand Singh, Chairman INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, UK Trust). 1998 Ritu?s ?Tree of Life? show, now a classic in the Indian design industry, was chosen to represent India at the World Fashion Forum in November by National Institute of Fashion Technology. Showcased as the finale to the show, which featured designs from all over the world, the ?Tree of Life? was acknowledged as a fitting tribute to the richness of Indian textile heritage. \'Lifetime Achievement Award\' by National Institute of FashionTechnology. In recognition of her contribution to the fashion industry, and the encouragement of young talent at NIFT, Ritu was appointed on the Board of Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the lifetime achievement award. \'Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Award? by the PHD-Chamber of Commerce in December. 1997 \'Tree of Life\' was presented once again at the Wembly Conference Center on the May 24-25 in London, as part of the celebration of India\'s 50 years of Independence. 1996 ?Tree of Life? was showcased for the first time outside the country on December 7 in conjunction with India Trade Promotion Organisation for a Festival of India hosted at Holiday Inn Crown Plaza , Dubai. May 1996 saw the crystallization of the dream to take Indian creativity and craftsmanship out into the world, in the form of Ritu London, at North Audley Street. With an art gallery A.R.K.S. in its basement, Ritu London counted amongst its customers Jemima Khan and the late Princess Diana. Ritu London presented a range of India?s highest quality craft skills linking garments, accessories in leather and furnishings in silk. Spanning several centuries, the designs included woven, printed, embroidered, painted and embossed techniques. From the workshops of RITU come garments, handbags and furnishings from the Zardozi, Kashida, Tree of Life and Karabagh Collections. Also included were her more recent researches into the hinterlands of the country together with the creations of other Indian designers. 1994 Ritu presented Karabagh, a collection of traditional and modern leather accessories, along with a selection of furnishings in silk, in January. With the Karabagh Collection, Ritu Kumar paid tribute to the eternal vines of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or ambi, popularised in the painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari, which is the starting point of this collection. The experiment transcended tradition in its attempt to combine techniques and materials accessible to the designer. Thus leather coats, bags and accessories are embossed, printed or painted, embroidered in harmony with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range, enhancing and adding an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored. Ritu was approached by Femina Miss India to professionalise the wardrobes for the finalists of the contestants who participate in the international pageants. Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai were the first of the two participants who subsequently went on to win the Miss Universe and Miss World titles. Through their wardrobes, Ritu was able to display the riches of India?s regenerated and evolved textile crafts to the world of television viewers. 1993 The \'Tree of Life\' was presented once again at the Crafts Museum in Pragati Maidan, New Delhi in March. This time by four organisations working together: The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), The Delhi Crafts Council, The Handloom and Handicrafts Museum and RITU. The show was also presented by the Madras Craft foundation to raise funds for \'Dakshinachitra\', a craft centre and working museum demonstrating the traditional skills of the south the tableau. 1992 Exhibitions/Promotions An exhibition Odhnis for India through the Veil was shown at Commonwealth Institute, London, in November. A traveling exhibition showcasing 101 contemporary saris from India was showcased in June, starting at the Cartright Hall, Bradford, the UK, in association with the Government of India Handicrafts and Handlooms Export Corporation, Gujarat State Handicraft Development Corporation, Orissa Co-operative Handicrafts Corporation, Co-optex and Sewa Lucknow. 1989-1991 As a celebration of 21 years of RITU, the \'Tree of Life\', an audio visual fashion tableau, was mounted by invitation at the Crafts Museum in New Delhi. The tableau was subsequently presented in Calcutta to raise funds for Divya Chahhya Trust, and at the Asiatic Society in Mumbai. The \'Tree of Life\' show is a textile tableau combined with an audio-visual that takes its audience across India?s unique blend of tradition, culture and style. The show has now been running for over 10 years and has travelled all over the world, opening doors of India\'s rich heritage and tradition and receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media. The show comprises eight sequences, each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar has been working with over the past 30 years. 1990 Exhibitions/Promotions Established \'Ritu\' a shop within a shop at the Galleries La Fayette, Paris, as an ongoing Promotion of India in March/April. Zardozi Exhibition - Festival of India in USA, Philadelphia Museum. 1989 Participated in the Hong Kong Asia Trust presentation in November on Traditions and Adaptations in Textiles and Fashion from Hong Kong, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. 1988 Ritu mixed embroidery and hand block printing to create the Kashida Collection. The geometric Phulkaris of Punjab, the mirror work of Kutch, the stylised plant and floral motifs of Kashmir, the white of the Chikan and the Kantha work of Bengal were blended with hand block prints to create garments of refinement and texture reflecting the very essence of Indian aesthetics. One of Ritu?s craftsmen earned the President?s Award for excellence in craft. 1985 The Zardosi collection of traditional wedding and evening wear was exhibited at the Lalit Kala Academy in New Delhi, Jahangir Art Gallery in Mumbai, Birla Academy of Art and Culture, Calcutta, and at the festival of India in the US. Ritu?s boutique was by renamed as ?RITU?. 1975 This is the time when the company Kalamkari Designs Pvt. Ltd was started jointly with her husband. A craft-oriented export house, it was soon selling silk dresses under the label ?Ritu Kumar for Monsoon? London, ?Ritu Kumar for Judith Ann?, New York, Sanoba Moden in Germany, Roshafi in Amsterdam and Trade Action in Australia. Franchises were also started with Harrods London, Liberty, and London for brief periods. It was a time for experimentation and exploration, and Ritu began to be well known for her print designs. The role has not changed since. Export of garments continues till date and the company has expanded its collections substantially and is now based in New Delhi. 1974 RITU\'S BOUTIQUE opens in Bombay at Akash Ganga, 89 Bhulabhai Desai Road (Warden Road), Bombay on March 18. 1973 In the early 1970s, Ritu discovered the embroiderers of Ranihati, settlements based outside Calcutta and provided them with a workspace in their own environment. Gradually the craft of Zardozi, which had once flourished in the great workshops of the Mughal emperors, was revived to produce marriage garments and evening wear of great beauty. In contemporising these skills, Ritu evolved a unique blend of pattern, fabric and gold embroidery. 1972 Fashion Parade by RITU\'S BOUTIQUE at the Tollygunge Club, Calcutta, on April 8. 1970 Exhibition-cum-sale of hand-printed saris, broad borders and huge pallavs revived the art of resist printing on March 9. Little daisy like flowers, squares and circles, traditional and modern motifs were mixed and matched. Ritu\'s Boutique celebrated two years of its existence on January 25 with a fashion show called \'The Fashion Mood of the Seventies\'. It was an early attempt at bringing some professionalism onto the ramp. There were 40 outfits shown. 1968 Opening of Ritu?s boutique in Calcutta at 46 a-b Wellesley Street, Calcutta. Ritu first regarded the boutique phenomena a fun thing, a mere giggle. Success changed all that and she became thoroughly involved with her work. She was quite elated at the marvelous response Calcutta gave RITU\'S BOUTIQUE and naturally had bigger, brighter plans for the future. 1966 Ritu\'s first Boutique opened in Delhi at D-3 Defence Colony, Link Road, New Delhi. This was the first such boutique in Delhi.
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